Skin Math

Chemical exfoliants that work by dissolving the bonds holding dead skin cells to the skin’s surface.

• AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acid): a water-soluble acid; improves skin texture, reduces fine lines and pigmentation, and boosts radiance (best for dry or rough skin and concerns like dullness, sun damage and uneven texture)

• BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acid): an oil-soluble acid; penetrates deeper into the pores to dissolve excess oil as well as dead skin cells; treats acne, blackheads and unclogs pores (best for oily, acne-prone or combination skin)

• PHAs (Polyhydroxy acid): hydroxy acid with larger molecular structure: exfoliates on the surface of skin and does not penetrate as deeply; gently exfoliates, offers antioxidant and hydrating properties and reduces irritation (best for sensitive skin, including those with conditions like rosacea and eczema)

Remember that azelaic acid is an exfoliator helper (not an actual exfoliator like AHAs or BHAs, but it does aid the natural exfoliation process). Overuse or including this along with exfoliating could cause irritation to the skin barrier.

A plant-based, natural ingredient found in the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant that has the same benefits as retinol, but offers more benefits and is gentler with less irritation. Properties and benefits include: anti-inflammatory properties to reduce redness and soothe skin; antioxidant effects protecting skin from radical damage; retinol benefits promoting skin cell turnover, reduction of wrinkles and improving skin texture; suitable for sensitive skin.

This power ingredient is 20x more hydrating than hyaluronic acid AND it’s anti-inflammatory, plus it helps build and protect the skin barrier. Powerhouse Ingredient!

Medicinal herb that has been used for traditional Asian medicine for centuries and is known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and wound-healing properties. It reduces inflammation, soothes irritated and red skin, improves the skin barrier function, promotes wound healing, reduces acne, plus it hydrates and nourishes the skin.

Collagen is a fantastic ingredient when you understand what it is and the proper way to use it. Collagen molecules, themselves, are too large to effectively absorb into the skin, so it provides a temporary “illusion” on the surface of the skin. The only way to effectively use collagen in topical form/skincare is to make sure that it is hydrolyzed collagen, collagen peptides or amino acids. This type of collagen can penetrate the skin to moisturize and improve its texture. For more effective collagen production, pair your collagen products with peptides, vitamin c, or retinoids, which stimulates the skin to makes its own collagen. Another effective approach is to take oral supplements containing amino acids that the body uses to create collagen, as that can be absorbed more effectively. Another great way to get collagen into the skin is by using spicules or exosomes before applying collagen or collagen masks will provide those “micro-tears” that will open the pores to allow better absorption. We recommend products like VT Reedle Shot (100 or 300 level) or the WellDerma PDRN Exosome Hydro Ampoule Serum.

Epidermal Growth Factor: a small, naturally occurring protein that plays a crucial role in skin health and regeneration. Functions of EGF include stimulating cell division and proliferation, promoting collagen and elastin production (leading to improved skin elasticity and firmness), accelerating wound healing, regulating skin cell differentiation and protecting against oxidative stress and damage (aka “anti-aging”)

The removal of dead skin from the surface of the skin to reveal new, healthier cells underneath, promoting a smoother, more radiant and hydrated complexion. This can be done through skincare products at home or chemically through esthetic services at the spa. Exfoliating benefits include improved radiance, enhanced moisture absorption, reduced congestion, and stimulated cell turnover. Over-exfoliation happens when you remove too many healthy skin cells, making your skin raw and vulnerable.

Common signs of over-exfoliation include redness, irritation, peeling, burning, breakouts and increased sensitivity to other products.

When to exfoliate: Oily skin can tolerate more frequent exfoliation (2-3 times per week), while dry or sensitive skin should exfoliate less often (1-2 times per week).

Small vesicles released by cells that contain various bioactive molecules, including proteins, lipids and nucleic acids.  In skincare, exosomes are used as a natural ingredient to promote skin health and rejuvenation, reduction of inflammation, hydration and skin brightening.

Fibroblast Growth Factor: a family of heparin-binding proteins that are crucial for cell growth, regeneration and repair. Functions of FGF include helping improve skin elasticity, reduce appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and enhance overall skin firmness and texture (all contributing to anti-aging effects).

Short chains of amino acids (the building blocks of proteins) that are used to promote skin health and improve its appearance by stimulating collagen production, reducing wrinkles and fine lines, improving skin texture, protect the skin from environmental damage and promote wound healing. There are 3 types of peptides used in skincare:

• Signal Peptides: sending messages to the skin to produce more collagen and elastin.

• Carrier Peptides: help to deliver other beneficial ingredients deeper into the skin.

• Copper Peptides: having anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties.

PDRN stands for Polydeoxyribonucleotide…a skincare ingredient derived from the DNA of salmon or trout sperm. These small fragments of DNA are highly compatible with human skin, stimulates collagen and elastin production, promote skin regeneration and repair, and has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. The benefits from PDRNs are reducing wrinkles and fine lines, improving skin elasticity and firmness, tightening pores, reducing scarring and enhancing skin hydration. While PDRN is often sources from salmon sperm/DNA, there are also vegan alternatives.

A more potent form of retinol (a Vitamin A derivative) that is a potent anti-aging ingredient that works by stimulating skin cell turnover and collagen production. It reduces fine lines and wrinkles, improves skin texture and tone, tightens and firms the skin, fights acne and blemishes and slows down the signs of photoaging.

*What is the difference between Retinal and Retinol: Retinal is closer to the active form of vitamin A than retinol, so it converts more quickly for faster, more potent results BUT that also means it has higher potential for irritation.

A derivative of vitamin A that is a potent antioxidant that helps to reduce wrinkles and fine lines, improve skin texture, fight acne, and protect against sun damage.

*What is the difference between Retinal and Retinol: Retinal is closer to the active form of vitamin A than retinol, so it converts more quickly for faster, more potent results BUT that also means it has higher potential for irritation.

Microscopic, needle-like particles typically derived from natural sources, such as sea sponges or plants. They are used to provide gentle exfoliation and micro-needling effect, creating tiny punctures in the skin, which stimulate collagen production, promote cell turn-over and enhance the absorption of active ingredients. Benefits include exfoliating of dead skin cells reducing wrinkles and fine lines, improving skin texture and tone, enhancing penetration of skincare products and stimulating collagen production.

AKA “the safer vitamin C for sensitive skin”…reduces hyperpigmentation, redness and inflammation. It can help strengthen the skin’s barrier, making it less susceptible to irritation and dryness.

*Those sensitive to Vitamin C, think about trying Tranaxemic Acid – as it takes on deep pigmentation and molasma while being safe for sensitive skin (making it a better alternative to vitamin C, in our opinion)